{
  "schemaVersion": "1.0",
  "item": {
    "slug": "gardening",
    "name": "Gardening",
    "source": "tencent",
    "type": "skill",
    "category": "内容创作",
    "sourceUrl": "https://clawhub.ai/ivangdavila/gardening",
    "canonicalUrl": "https://clawhub.ai/ivangdavila/gardening",
    "targetPlatform": "OpenClaw"
  },
  "install": {
    "downloadMode": "redirect",
    "downloadUrl": "/downloads/gardening",
    "sourceDownloadUrl": "https://wry-manatee-359.convex.site/api/v1/download?slug=gardening",
    "sourcePlatform": "tencent",
    "targetPlatform": "OpenClaw",
    "installMethod": "Manual import",
    "extraction": "Extract archive",
    "prerequisites": [
      "OpenClaw"
    ],
    "packageFormat": "ZIP package",
    "includedAssets": [
      "SKILL.md"
    ],
    "primaryDoc": "SKILL.md",
    "quickSetup": [
      "Download the package from Yavira.",
      "Extract the archive and review SKILL.md first.",
      "Import or place the package into your OpenClaw setup."
    ],
    "agentAssist": {
      "summary": "Hand the extracted package to your coding agent with a concrete install brief instead of figuring it out manually.",
      "steps": [
        "Download the package from Yavira.",
        "Extract it into a folder your agent can access.",
        "Paste one of the prompts below and point your agent at the extracted folder."
      ],
      "prompts": [
        {
          "label": "New install",
          "body": "I downloaded a skill package from Yavira. Read SKILL.md from the extracted folder and install it by following the included instructions. Tell me what you changed and call out any manual steps you could not complete."
        },
        {
          "label": "Upgrade existing",
          "body": "I downloaded an updated skill package from Yavira. Read SKILL.md from the extracted folder, compare it with my current installation, and upgrade it while preserving any custom configuration unless the package docs explicitly say otherwise. Summarize what changed and any follow-up checks I should run."
        }
      ]
    },
    "sourceHealth": {
      "source": "tencent",
      "status": "healthy",
      "reason": "direct_download_ok",
      "recommendedAction": "download",
      "checkedAt": "2026-04-23T16:43:11.935Z",
      "expiresAt": "2026-04-30T16:43:11.935Z",
      "httpStatus": 200,
      "finalUrl": "https://wry-manatee-359.convex.site/api/v1/download?slug=4claw-imageboard",
      "contentType": "application/zip",
      "probeMethod": "head",
      "details": {
        "probeUrl": "https://wry-manatee-359.convex.site/api/v1/download?slug=4claw-imageboard",
        "contentDisposition": "attachment; filename=\"4claw-imageboard-1.0.1.zip\"",
        "redirectLocation": null,
        "bodySnippet": null
      },
      "scope": "source",
      "summary": "Source download looks usable.",
      "detail": "Yavira can redirect you to the upstream package for this source.",
      "primaryActionLabel": "Download for OpenClaw",
      "primaryActionHref": "/downloads/gardening"
    },
    "validation": {
      "installChecklist": [
        "Use the Yavira download entry.",
        "Review SKILL.md after the package is downloaded.",
        "Confirm the extracted package contains the expected setup assets."
      ],
      "postInstallChecks": [
        "Confirm the extracted package includes the expected docs or setup files.",
        "Validate the skill or prompts are available in your target agent workspace.",
        "Capture any manual follow-up steps the agent could not complete."
      ]
    },
    "downloadPageUrl": "https://openagent3.xyz/downloads/gardening",
    "agentPageUrl": "https://openagent3.xyz/skills/gardening/agent",
    "manifestUrl": "https://openagent3.xyz/skills/gardening/agent.json",
    "briefUrl": "https://openagent3.xyz/skills/gardening/agent.md"
  },
  "agentAssist": {
    "summary": "Hand the extracted package to your coding agent with a concrete install brief instead of figuring it out manually.",
    "steps": [
      "Download the package from Yavira.",
      "Extract it into a folder your agent can access.",
      "Paste one of the prompts below and point your agent at the extracted folder."
    ],
    "prompts": [
      {
        "label": "New install",
        "body": "I downloaded a skill package from Yavira. Read SKILL.md from the extracted folder and install it by following the included instructions. Tell me what you changed and call out any manual steps you could not complete."
      },
      {
        "label": "Upgrade existing",
        "body": "I downloaded an updated skill package from Yavira. Read SKILL.md from the extracted folder, compare it with my current installation, and upgrade it while preserving any custom configuration unless the package docs explicitly say otherwise. Summarize what changed and any follow-up checks I should run."
      }
    ]
  },
  "documentation": {
    "source": "clawhub",
    "primaryDoc": "SKILL.md",
    "sections": [
      {
        "title": "Soil Fundamentals",
        "body": "Test soil before amending — pH and nutrients determine what to add, not guessing\nMost plants prefer pH 6.0-7.0 — blueberries need acidic (4.5-5.5), lavender needs alkaline\nCompost fixes almost everything — improite clay drainage, sandy retention, feeds soil life\nNever work wet soil — compacts structure, takes years to recover\nMulch 2-3 inches around plants — retains moisture, suppresses weeds, regulates temperature"
      },
      {
        "title": "Watering Mistakes",
        "body": "Deep infrequent > shallow frequent — trains roots to grow deep, builds resilience\nMorning watering best — leaves dry before night, reduces fungal disease\nWater soil, not leaves — wet foliage invites disease, wastes water\nWilting in afternoon heat is normal — check morning, if still wilted then water\nContainer plants dry faster — may need daily watering in summer"
      },
      {
        "title": "Planting Timing",
        "body": "Last frost date is starting point — count back for seed starting, forward for transplant\nSoil temperature matters more than air — cold soil rots seeds, use thermometer\nCool season crops: lettuce, peas, broccoli — plant early spring and fall\nWarm season crops: tomatoes, peppers, squash — after soil reaches 60°F/15°C\nPerennials: plant in fall — roots establish over winter, less stress than spring"
      },
      {
        "title": "Spacing Reality",
        "body": "Seed packet spacing is minimum — crowded plants compete, underperform\nAir circulation prevents disease — don't pack plants together\nMature size, not transplant size — that tiny tomato becomes 6 feet tall\nVertical growing saves space — trellises for cucumbers, beans, tomatoes\nSuccession planting: stagger sowings 2-3 weeks — continuous harvest, not glut"
      },
      {
        "title": "Fertilizer Basics",
        "body": "N-P-K: Nitrogen (leaves), Phosphorus (roots/flowers), Potassium (overall health)\nMore is not better — overfertilizing burns roots, causes leggy growth\nOrganic slow-release preferred — feeds soil life, not just plants\nHeavy feeders (tomatoes, corn) need more — light feeders (beans, herbs) need less\nStop fertilizing 4-6 weeks before first frost — don't encourage tender growth"
      },
      {
        "title": "Pest Management",
        "body": "Identify before treating — wrong treatment wastes time, may harm beneficials\nHealthy plants resist pests better — soil health is pest prevention\nBeneficial insects: ladybugs eat aphids, wasps parasitize caterpillars — don't kill all bugs\nPhysical barriers first: row covers, handpicking, water spray\nPesticides last resort — even organic ones kill beneficials"
      },
      {
        "title": "Common Pest Signs",
        "body": "SignLikely CauseFirst ResponseHoles in leavesCaterpillars, beetlesHandpick, Bt spraySticky residueAphids, scaleStrong water sprayWhite powder on leavesPowdery mildewImprove airflow, remove affectedYellowing from bottomNitrogen deficiency or overwateringCheck soil moisture firstWilting despite wet soilRoot rotReduce watering, improve drainage"
      },
      {
        "title": "Pruning Principles",
        "body": "Clean cuts: sharp tools, just above node or bud — ragged cuts invite disease\nPrune spring bloomers after flowering — they set buds on old wood\nPrune summer bloomers in late winter — they bloom on new growth\nRemove dead/diseased/crossing branches first — the 3 Ds\nNever remove more than 1/3 at once — stresses plant, triggers excessive regrowth"
      },
      {
        "title": "Composting",
        "body": "Browns (carbon): dry leaves, cardboard, straw — provide structure\nGreens (nitrogen): kitchen scraps, grass clippings, coffee grounds — provide nutrients\nRatio: 3 parts brown to 1 part green — too green = smelly, too brown = slow\nTurn every 1-2 weeks — aeration speeds decomposition\nFinished when dark, crumbly, earthy smell — 2-6 months depending on method"
      },
      {
        "title": "Season Extension",
        "body": "Cold frames: unheated mini greenhouse — extends season 4-6 weeks each end\nRow covers: frost protection to ~28°F/-2°C — lighter grades for pest barrier\nMulch heavily before frost — protects roots of perennials\nSuccession plant cold-hardy crops in fall — spinach, kale, garlic\nStart seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before transplant date — lighting critical"
      },
      {
        "title": "Container Gardening",
        "body": "Drainage holes mandatory — no rocks in bottom, just holes\nPotting mix, not garden soil — garden soil compacts, drains poorly in pots\nSize matters: tomatoes need 5+ gallons, herbs can use smaller\nContainers dry fast — may need twice-daily watering in heat\nFeed more frequently — nutrients wash out with watering"
      },
      {
        "title": "Planning Principles",
        "body": "Right plant, right place — sun/shade, wet/dry requirements must match site\nGroup by water needs — don't mix drought-tolerant with water-lovers\nNative plants easier — adapted to local conditions, support local wildlife\nStart small, expand later — better to maintain small garden well than large garden poorly\nKeep garden journal — what worked, what failed, when planted"
      }
    ],
    "body": "Soil Fundamentals\nTest soil before amending — pH and nutrients determine what to add, not guessing\nMost plants prefer pH 6.0-7.0 — blueberries need acidic (4.5-5.5), lavender needs alkaline\nCompost fixes almost everything — improite clay drainage, sandy retention, feeds soil life\nNever work wet soil — compacts structure, takes years to recover\nMulch 2-3 inches around plants — retains moisture, suppresses weeds, regulates temperature\nWatering Mistakes\nDeep infrequent > shallow frequent — trains roots to grow deep, builds resilience\nMorning watering best — leaves dry before night, reduces fungal disease\nWater soil, not leaves — wet foliage invites disease, wastes water\nWilting in afternoon heat is normal — check morning, if still wilted then water\nContainer plants dry faster — may need daily watering in summer\nPlanting Timing\nLast frost date is starting point — count back for seed starting, forward for transplant\nSoil temperature matters more than air — cold soil rots seeds, use thermometer\nCool season crops: lettuce, peas, broccoli — plant early spring and fall\nWarm season crops: tomatoes, peppers, squash — after soil reaches 60°F/15°C\nPerennials: plant in fall — roots establish over winter, less stress than spring\nSpacing Reality\nSeed packet spacing is minimum — crowded plants compete, underperform\nAir circulation prevents disease — don't pack plants together\nMature size, not transplant size — that tiny tomato becomes 6 feet tall\nVertical growing saves space — trellises for cucumbers, beans, tomatoes\nSuccession planting: stagger sowings 2-3 weeks — continuous harvest, not glut\nFertilizer Basics\nN-P-K: Nitrogen (leaves), Phosphorus (roots/flowers), Potassium (overall health)\nMore is not better — overfertilizing burns roots, causes leggy growth\nOrganic slow-release preferred — feeds soil life, not just plants\nHeavy feeders (tomatoes, corn) need more — light feeders (beans, herbs) need less\nStop fertilizing 4-6 weeks before first frost — don't encourage tender growth\nPest Management\nIdentify before treating — wrong treatment wastes time, may harm beneficials\nHealthy plants resist pests better — soil health is pest prevention\nBeneficial insects: ladybugs eat aphids, wasps parasitize caterpillars — don't kill all bugs\nPhysical barriers first: row covers, handpicking, water spray\nPesticides last resort — even organic ones kill beneficials\nCommon Pest Signs\nSign\tLikely Cause\tFirst Response\nHoles in leaves\tCaterpillars, beetles\tHandpick, Bt spray\nSticky residue\tAphids, scale\tStrong water spray\nWhite powder on leaves\tPowdery mildew\tImprove airflow, remove affected\nYellowing from bottom\tNitrogen deficiency or overwatering\tCheck soil moisture first\nWilting despite wet soil\tRoot rot\tReduce watering, improve drainage\nPruning Principles\nClean cuts: sharp tools, just above node or bud — ragged cuts invite disease\nPrune spring bloomers after flowering — they set buds on old wood\nPrune summer bloomers in late winter — they bloom on new growth\nRemove dead/diseased/crossing branches first — the 3 Ds\nNever remove more than 1/3 at once — stresses plant, triggers excessive regrowth\nComposting\nBrowns (carbon): dry leaves, cardboard, straw — provide structure\nGreens (nitrogen): kitchen scraps, grass clippings, coffee grounds — provide nutrients\nRatio: 3 parts brown to 1 part green — too green = smelly, too brown = slow\nTurn every 1-2 weeks — aeration speeds decomposition\nFinished when dark, crumbly, earthy smell — 2-6 months depending on method\nSeason Extension\nCold frames: unheated mini greenhouse — extends season 4-6 weeks each end\nRow covers: frost protection to ~28°F/-2°C — lighter grades for pest barrier\nMulch heavily before frost — protects roots of perennials\nSuccession plant cold-hardy crops in fall — spinach, kale, garlic\nStart seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before transplant date — lighting critical\nContainer Gardening\nDrainage holes mandatory — no rocks in bottom, just holes\nPotting mix, not garden soil — garden soil compacts, drains poorly in pots\nSize matters: tomatoes need 5+ gallons, herbs can use smaller\nContainers dry fast — may need twice-daily watering in heat\nFeed more frequently — nutrients wash out with watering\nPlanning Principles\nRight plant, right place — sun/shade, wet/dry requirements must match site\nGroup by water needs — don't mix drought-tolerant with water-lovers\nNative plants easier — adapted to local conditions, support local wildlife\nStart small, expand later — better to maintain small garden well than large garden poorly\nKeep garden journal — what worked, what failed, when planted"
  },
  "trust": {
    "sourceLabel": "tencent",
    "provenanceUrl": "https://clawhub.ai/ivangdavila/gardening",
    "publisherUrl": "https://clawhub.ai/ivangdavila/gardening",
    "owner": "ivangdavila",
    "version": "1.0.0",
    "license": null,
    "verificationStatus": "Indexed source record"
  },
  "links": {
    "detailUrl": "https://openagent3.xyz/skills/gardening",
    "downloadUrl": "https://openagent3.xyz/downloads/gardening",
    "agentUrl": "https://openagent3.xyz/skills/gardening/agent",
    "manifestUrl": "https://openagent3.xyz/skills/gardening/agent.json",
    "briefUrl": "https://openagent3.xyz/skills/gardening/agent.md"
  }
}